Granada, the charm of the contrasts

La Alhambra / Pic: Ramón Villegas

In South Spain there is a place where the Muslim and Christian culture live together, creating a unique atmosphere, a mixture of unforgettable images, flavours and smells that can only be found in the city of Granada.

At the foot of Sierra Nevada, the highest peak in the Iberian Peninsula, lies the Moorish Alhambra Palace, the most emblematic monument of this multi-cultural city in Eastern Andalusia.

Considered the heart or Granada – not in vane it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site – the Alhambra is a magnificent complex that used to be the city, fortress and palace of the Kings of the Nasrid dynasty. Its extensive rooms, beautiful gardens and famous fountains make up the highest expression of Muslim art in Europe. On the hill opposite the Alhambra, is the Albaicín, one of the oldest districts of Granada. Its Moorish roots make this neighbourhood a charming place. It is well worth a walk through its labyrinth of narrow streets to see the gardens of the cármenes (its typical houses), as well as the wonderful viewpoints – such as San Nicolás and San Cristobal – and the colourful Arabic market, full of shops with souvenirs and crafts. And to end the long stroll, there is nothing better than an aromatic tea in the teterías located at the bottom of the hill, while watching the bustle of the tourists and the authenticity of the locals with the catchy Arabic music in the background.

The best way to approach the Christian Granada is to visit the Royal Chapel – where the Catholic Monarchs are buried – and the Cathedral, a masterpiece of Spanish Renaissance style, built by Queen Isabella immediately after the conquest of the city in 1942, which led to the disappearance of the last Arab Kingdom in the Peninsula.

Apart from its monumental and picturesque places, Granada is also well-known to be one of the few remaining cities in Spain where tapas are still served free. From the neighborhood of La Chana to the area known as Plaza de Toros, there are many areas in which ‘ir the tapas’ (go around to the bars eating tapas) means get a free lunch while consuming a couple of drinks.

For the flamenco-lovers the Sacromonte is a must-see neighbourhood. Famous for its caves, many of which have been transformed into bars where the gypsies sing and dance flamenco every night. It is impossible to transfer the beauty of the views of the Alhambra, the charming Albaicín, the architectonic variety and great entertainment of this city onto paper. Granada can’t be explained, it needs to be seen, felt and breathed to appreciate its atmosphere. Once visited for the first time, there will be an irresistible urge to come back again to this dreamlike city.

Easter in Granada

If you go to Granada during the Easter holidays and suddenly you see a group of people dressed up as if they belonged to the Ku Klux Klan, don’t panic, they are just penitentes, that is, members of the cofradías who participate in the processions of Semana Santa (Holy Week) in Easter.

Many people from Granada take this religious event very seriously, so the Granada processions are quite spectacular and passionate. Months before the Holy Week, the members of each hermandad (brotherhood) prepare the figures of their Christ or Virgin Mary for their own processions and make sure everything is ready for the event.

During the processions, the pasos (wooden platforms) with the figures are carried on the shoulders of the men known as costaleros. They are followed by queues of penitentes or nazarenos, dressed up with long gowns and a particular cylindrical hat.

In Granada there are many processions, but the most popular ones are the “Silent Procession” – where the street lights are turned off and people remain silent as the procession takes places – and the “Gypsy Procession” – with bonfires and saetas (traditional songs to the Virgin) sung by the believers.
This year the Holy Week in Granada takes place from 1st to 8th of April.